3 Foods (and 1 Beverage) Which I HAD to Have Again Before Leaving Buenos Aires

1. The Havana Merengue Alfajor

Alfajors come in all shapes and sizes. One might even argue that they are a symbol for diversity and acceptance, if one were truly cookie-crazy. At it's simplest, the basic principle is as follows: cookie, filling, cookie, covered in some type of sweet coating. For example, there's the Oreo Alfajor, which is a giant oreo cookie, oreo cream filling, giant oreo cookie, oreo cream filling, and then one more giant oreo cookie, all coated in chocolate. Some forgo the coating in lieu of rolling of the alfajor in coconut. More traditionally, you will find alfajors made of a soft shortbread-like cookie, then dulce de leche, then another shortbread-like cookie, all covered in  delicious dark, milk, or white chocolate, depending on your preference. Really, it's almost impossible to go wrong - it's two friggin' cookies with something sweet in between them, usually coated in chocolate. You could eat one of these babies at a funeral and leave smiling, for reals. 

But if you want the BEST alfajor, in my limited opinion, you have to have the merengue coated piece of heaven sold by Havana, a very popular coffee chain across Latin America. Nestled between two buttery soft cookies is the richest, creamiest, most delicious dulce de leche your tongue has ever had the privilege of tasting. Encompassing all of this sweet glory is a thin layer of delicately sugared, ever-so-slightly crispy merengue which crunches on initial impact, then melts into a soft sugary mess in your mouth. Each bite follows a perfect anatomical structure: crispy, chewy, creamy, chewy, and then crispy again. I tried to pack a couple of these aways for friends and family the first time I left Buenos Aires in March, but let's just say that they didn't do so well in my bag. Plus, I got hungry. Sorry.

2. Tita

I'm not huge on the combination of citrus and chocolate (or of fruit and chocolate in general, really) but Tita totally gets it right. Two crunchy, graham-cracker-esque cookies sandwich just the right amount of lemon frosting, and then the whole thing is - once again - coated in chocolate. The best part about it? The  packaging doesn't list calories or fat, only vitamins. So I'm pretty sure it's a health food. Right? Right? Someone back me up here.

3. Medialunas

Oh sure, they look like your average, run-of-the-mill croissant, but the medialuna kicks it up a notch by being coated in a sticky, sweet glaze. I can't remember the whole story (and I can't find any information on google to back up this claim) but someone told me that the medialuna was invented after some kind of victory over the Turkish. The half-moon shape, as is found on the Turkish flag, can then be aggressively "consumed" by the victors while the sweet glaze reminds them of the sweetness of victory, making this undoubtedly the most violent pastry I've ever eaten. 

Another thing to love about Buenos Aires? It's pretty damn common to eat three of these at a time. (Did I mention yet that I gained some weight in Argentina?) 

4. Mate

If there's one thing that Argentinians love, it's mate, and I can't blame them. Mate is made from the yerba mate plant and tastes similar to very strongly brewed green tea. Though some novices will add sugar (and I will admit, the first time I drank it, it was sweetened) purists need nothing more than a hollowed-out gourd, a special metal straw, a bag of dried leaves, and a thermos of hot water. 

Drinking mate is a very social thing and it is incredibly common to see large groups of friends at a park passing around the ol' gourd. (Other places I've seen Argentinians loving on some mate include, but are certainly not limited to: the front of a bus, the police office at the Argentinian/Chilean border, in a barber shop, and - my personal favorite - in a graveyard). When it's mate sharing time, whoever brought the supplies prepares the beverage with very hot, but not quite boiling, water. The server takes the first drink, draining the gourd of all of the mate-infused water, before refilling and passing the gourd clockwise. When the gourd is handed to you, suppress your instinct to say thank you! Thanking the server means that you are done and don't want another glass. After each person drains the cup, they pass it back to the server, who is responsible for refilling. The server in THIS photo is the lovely Victoria, who I had the pleasure of sharing my last mate with before leaving for Brasil. (And an extra big thank you to her for bringing her fancy mate gourd so I could photograph it for the blog!!) 

Mate is said to contain a variety of health benefits, and certainly gives you a nice energy boost. But a word of warning: drinking mate means consuming a whole lot of water and caffeine as well, so I wouldn't advise consuming it, say, immediately before you have to run for a very crowded subway where you will be stuck waiting for over two hours without a bathroom. I mean, I suppose something like that could happen to someone. Hypothetically, of course. Not me.

(Yeah, that was totally me). 

Choripan

What is it? Choripan

Okay, but what IS it? Chorizo, a thick and fatty sausage, served as a sandwich on crusty white bread. I chose to top mine with roasted eggplant, marinated onion, purple cabbage, green herbs in oil, and olive mayonnaise.

What circumstances led to this extremely classy hot dog? The amazing, incredible Leon took me to enjoy this for Easter morning breakfast. I watched a grandpa teach his grandson how to ride a bicycle while he told me about the architectural history of Argentina. We had to change tables because the smoke from the grill was too strong at the first, but at the second, pollen from the cattails kept trying to land in my 7-Up. It was perfect. Try as I might, though, I couldn't finish the whole thing!

Where can I find some? This particular Choripan came from a street vendor in Puerto Madero, one of (if not the) most expensive areas in Buenos Aires. According to Leon, each cubic square foot of space costs $4500.

If Puerto Madero is that expensive, how much did the food cost? Fear not! Though Puerto Madero IS very expensive, you can enjoy a gourmet choripan of your very own for around $5.00USD.

Hostel Barbecued Chicken

What is it? Hostel Barbecued Chicken

Okay, but what IS it? Chicken marinated in cream, mustard, and garlic, barbecued on a homemade grill constructed from half of a barrel.

What circumstances led to the world's most perfect chicken? A lot of people cook in hostels because it's much cheaper than constantly eating out. Certain dishes are staples, no matter where you go: pasta with tomato sauce, meat and cheese sandwiches, rice with vegetables. The general rule is to keep it cheap, fast, and simple. So imagine my amazement when one of the men working at my hostel brings out this perfectly barbecued chicken and asks if I want some. Um, yes please? This feast was rounded out with potatoes cooked in the same marinade, garlic bread toasted on the grill, nice and fatty chorizo sausages, and oh-my-god-I'm-so-glad-I'm-not-a-vegetarian-right-now steak. Honestly, the steak was probably the best meat I've ever had, but I didn't get a good picture of it.

Where can I get some? I gorged myself on this feast in Mendoza, Argentina at the Savigliano Hostel.

How much did it cost? I was in charge of buying the salad, which cost approximately $2.00USD. Everything else was free.

Empanada Mendocinas

What is it? Empanadas Mendocinas

Okay, but what IS it? A baked, turnover-like pastry stuffed with a variety of fillings. This one, in the traditional style of Mendoza, contained ground beef, onions, olives, and hard boiled eggs. On the side is a lovely, improvised-plastic-bottle-glass of Malbec, the most famous wine of the Mendoza region.

What circumstances led to this meaty goodness? I meant to spend the day hiking in the Andes, I really did. But a late morning, a long bus ride, and a healthy dose of laziness found me spending the afternoon at a hot springs in the foothills instead. I enjoyed this empanada and wine with some friends along the side of the road while we watched a group of rock climbers practice on the brick legs of a bridge.

Where can I find some? Empanadas are insanely popular all over Latin America and can be found, among other places, at: street stalls, cafes, pizzerias, super markets, gas stations and subway stations. But, for the Mendoza-style empanada, you'll probably have the best luck in Mendoza, Argentina (who woulda guessed?)

How much did it cost? $5.00USD for 6 empanadas.

Sopapilla con Pebre

What is it? Sopapilla con Pebre

Okay, but what IS it? For all my US readers: this is NOT dessert! A Chilean sopapilla is deep-fried dough made from flour, water, and pumpkin. It comes with a variety of toppings, but I like pebre: a spicy sauce made from tomatoes, onions, lots of garlic, and spices.

What circumstances led to so much deep-fried deliciousness? Dancing always works up an appetite, especially when you can't tango to save your life. After a pisco sour (hard alcohol made from grapes mixed with lemon and sugar), a terremoto (white wine and herb liquor with pineapple ice cream on top), and a full night of warding off lecherous old men practicing their English with pick-up lines, the lovely Susanna and I stopped at street stall at 2:00AM for some much-needed nourishment. It was raining. A lot.

Where can I find some? At almost any street stall in Santiago, Chile.

How much did it cost? $0.20USD per sopapilla. I recommend buying at least two. They're delicious.

Mote con Huesillos

What is it? Mote con Huesillos

Okay, but what IS it? First, dried peaches are cooked with sugar, cinnamon, and water to make a sweet, tea-like liquid. This nectar, along with the whole dried peaches, is then poured on top of cooked barley, and the whole concoction is eaten with a spoon. In some ways, it's like the Chilean version of bubble tea - a drink that you also have to chew.

What circumstances led to this drink... snack... thing? Hostels often need to be fumigated; this is just a fact of life. And when fumigation day comes, all of the hostel patrons are forced out into the street for a few hours. On one such day, I found myself doing some forced sightseeing in Santiago, Chile. Attracted by a commotion in the center of the plaza I was walking through, I attempted to get a better look, only to be pulled by the street performer in question into the middle of the crowd. For the next 45 minutes, I was "saved" from a "burning building" by a series of men who were forced to carry me, princess-style, across the plaza. At the end, I received a free copy of the performer's DVD: Loco Freddy 2, El Beso de Gringo, or in English: Crazy Freddy 2, the kiss of the foreigner/white person. Parched by my ordeal (after all, I WAS stuck in a "burning building" for nearly 45 minutes) I bought this from a street vendor.

Where can I get some? All over Chile during the summer, and apparently into the fall as well

How much did it cost? I don't remember, but I don't think it was more than $2.00USD.

Cappucino Freddo

What is it? Cappucino Freddo

Okay, but what IS it? I didn't catch the exact ingredients, but it's some combination of coffee and dulce de leche ice cream blended together into a milkshake, then topped with whipped cream and shaved chocolate. (Dulce de leche, for the uninitiated, is a thick, creamy, caramel-like sauce very popular across Latin America. The main difference between dulce de leche and caramel is that while caramel is made by simply heating sugar, dulce de leche is made mostly with milk. To call it caramel is not only inaccurate but, to the die-hard fans, downright offensive.)

What circumstances led to such a marvelous drink? (What I thought was) my last day in Buenos Aires left me distressed and badly in need of some sweet, sweet comfort. After spending several hours buying souvenirs - At Walmart, of all places - I came across this gem. The five minutes it took me to slurp down my glass of heaven saw me in a state of total nirvana, my mind completely clear of all worry or despair. The following hour saw me in a dark state of depression when I realized the cruel irony that I didn't know this drink existed until the day I had to leave Buenos Aires. 


Where can I find some? At any Freddo, one of the most popular ice cream chains in Argentina.


How much did it cost? Around $5.00USD. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Shut your face for even asking.

Bife de Chorizo

What is it? Bife de Chorizo con Chimichurri

Okay, but what IS it? Sirloin steak. Not pictured is the chimichurri, a sauce made with oil, garlic, lots of vinegar, and a whole bunch of dried herbs. I could drink the stuff.

What circumstances led to such a marvelous piece of meat? After spending a gray afternoon in the touristy areas of La Boca - that oft photographed historic neighborhood full of brightly painted homes and, more recently, slightly offensive caricatures of Italian immigrants - Olga and I decided to keep with our stereotypical tourist afternoon and go to a touristy restaurant for some touristy steak. Tourist.

Where can I find some? I don't remember the name of the restaurant, but it was somewhere in the San Telmo district of Buenos Aires, Argentina.

How much did it cost? Around $20.00 USD for the whole thing, but since we split it, it came to $10.00 each.

What's this all about then?

I've been failing, miserably, at keeping a blog on this trip.

I see amazing things everyday. I talk to amazing people. I hear amazing music. I eat amazing food. And then, when I sit down at my computer to tell you all about it, my fingers freeze. I don't know what to say. How do I distinguish the interesting from the mundane? How do I do justice to my experiences?

Meanwhile, you - my family and friends - are assuredly wondering what the heck I'm up to day after day.

Suddenly, inspiration!

What am I passionate about? What do I think about all the time? And what do people LOVE to look at?

Food, of course!

It is my intention to not only use this blog to share photos and (where applicable) recipes, but also to give you, my readers, glimpses into my travels by sharing the context in which I enjoyed my food. Given enough time and motivation, I may even use this as a forum to delve into deeper issues of nutrition, agriculture, community, and access to resources around the world.

Why the name, Yo Tengo Hambre? Well, I'm in a Spanish-speaking country right now, and I'm hungry.